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1. Backing Size- Quilt backings must be at least 4" (6" if ruler work is requested) larger than the quilt top on all four sides of the quilt, so if your quilt is 60"x60" square, your quilt backing needs to be at least 66"x66" square.

Why does it need to be bigger? The way that quilts are attached to a long-arm machine require the backing to be larger than the quilt top, the backing is attached to leaders that are attached to a long-arm table and this takes a couple of inches at the top and bottom of the backing. Also the sides of the quilt backing are attached to clamps, to help keep the backing taught. Because quilt backings generally have very few seams and quilt tops generally have a lot of seams - quilt tops can grow/stretch a little bit during quilting.  Making the backing larger ensures that the quilt backing will be large enough to cover the entire quilt top and leave room for the binding.

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2.   Square Up Your Backing - When machine quilting a quilt on a long-arm machine, quilt backings need to be square/straight, the top and bottom edges of the backing are attached to leaders on the long-arm machine and if the backing is not square/straight it becomes a nightmare for the long-arm quilter to try and keep your backing flat. Trim up any extra or longer pieces of fabric. If you send material for your backing that has not been pieced, just a long piece of yardage, there will be an additional fee charged for piecing and pressing the material (unless it is a continuous 108" backing fabric that extends the length (plus 4-6" of your quilt top).

 

3.  Centering Your Backing- On a long-arm machine quilts are quilted from the top left to top right of the quilt, back and forth in the same manner as reading a book. This can be done generally in 12"-24" increments. Because the quilts are not basted the same way that a quilt to be hand-quilted or even quilted on a domestic sewing machine is -  it's very difficult to center a quilt top on a backing on a long-arm machine.  For that reason, a single print for the backing is contemplated in the pricing.  If your backing is pieced or if there is directional fabric or a need for specific centering of the backing in relation to the quilt top, there will be an additional charge for the alignment of the backing.

 

4.   Marking the Top- Please mark the top of the quilt top and backing, simply write "top" on a post it note and pin it to top of the quilt top and the top of the quilt backing. Even if it's obvious to you  it's best to always label them.to be sure it is done correctly.

 

5.   Pressing/Trimming Threads- Make sure that all seams are pressed flat. This will help your quilt to lay flatter as it's being machine quilted.  Also make sure that your backing is pressed and all seams are flat.  It is also very important to make sure that all excess threads are trimmed as stray threads can cause damage to your quilt during the quilting process.

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6.  Borders- Make sure that all borders are correctly attached. Often borders are just sewn on and not measured. This will create a "wavy" border and will make it very difficult for the long-arm quilter to keep your quilt square or without "tucks". There are many tutorials on the internet to assist with attaching your border so you have a perfectly squared quilt.

 

7.  Why does custom quilting cost more?   There is a difference in cost when having a quilt custom machine quilted or machine quilted with an edge to edge pattern. Often edge to edge patterns are programmed into a computer and the machine does the majority of the work.  Custom machine quilting is done completely hand-guided and requires a lot of physical labor by the long-arm quilter.  I do not use a computer guided system.  All of the quilting I will do you for you is hand-guided and unique to your quilt.  I can promise you that it will be "one-of-a-kind" because when it is done by hand - there is NEVER a "pattern".

 

8.   Batting- I do have high-quality batting for sale if you would prefer.  My batting is on rolls, so there are no creases and are easily trimmed (some bagged battings can have creases in them that may show through into your quilt).  Before you purchase your own batting - let's connect to make sure that the batting that you prefer is also something I am comfortable using. Some "cheaper" battings can be nightmare for the long-arm quilter to work with.  

 

9.  Design- There will be a consultation with every client before your quilt is quilted. If there is a particular design or design element that you like, or do not like on your quilt let me know. If there are certain ideas that you absolutely want on your quilt, sketch it out, but don't forget the more detailed and complex you become with your ideas, the more  work it will entail and will ultimately cost  more.  We will discuss thread colors, design options and pricing during the consultation.  If you would like some suggestions on design, I will ask that you send me a photo of your quilt that I can "play" with and show you some ideas for the quilting during the consultation.